September 2, 2010

Anglophile Gear: The Tweed Cap

Introduction to the Tweed Cap

No Anglophile’s life is complete without a Tweed Cap. It’s the standard hat for hiking around the countryside. Oftentimes, people wearing Wellington Boots also complement the ensemble with a tweed cap. Tweed caps are well made and will last forever, they also repel water and are very warm during cold winter months. Tweed caps are becoming increasingly popular in fashion circles as the latest style. Many famous celebrities such as Madonnna’s husband Guy Ritchie have been spotted out and about wearing the distinctive tweed cap.

What is the Tweed Cap?

A tweed cap is a hat made of the tweed wool cloth. Tweed is a special kind of wool made in Scotland and Ireland. Tweed is a rough wool fabric. It has a soft and flexible texture that is characterized by being very closely woven together. It can have a plain pattern or popularly in a herringbone pattern. The thing that is most notable about Tweed cloth is that it has many different colors in it, that’s because the Tweed yarn is made of up may different colors of wool.

Tweed Caps are popular because they are great for outerwear purposes. Tweed is very moisture resistant and durable. Anything made of Tweed will last many, many years. Tweed is often worn by farmers, and by people participating in outdoor activities such as hunting, shooting and more.

Brief History of the Tweed Cap

No one knows for sure when the Tweed Cap first started to be worn. It’s one of those things that sort of always been around. But we do know what made it a countryside standard. Parliament passed an Act in 1571 that said all boys and men over six years of age, except for upper class people, must wear a wool cap made in England on Sunday and Holidays. The fine for not doing so was 3 farthings a day!

The purpose of the law was to stimulate a lagging wool trade in England. Though the law was eventually repealed, the woolen cap had become a countryside staple, seen on every man and worn pretty much every day for any occasion. Instantly, the woolen cap became a symbol of the countrside and eventualy as the countryside emptied out during the Industrial Revolution, it became a staple of the factory workingman as well. It did not take long for politicians to pander to the workingman by donning the tweed hats themselves.

It also became in vogue for Royalty to wear the distinctive tweed cap while out hunting. They even had their own tweed pattern. Despite the upper class pretentions, the tweed cap became a staunch symbol of the workingman just like the Bowler Hat became a symbol of city professionals.

Despite a shift in occupations of most Britains, the tweed cap is still a countryside staple and has now become somewhat of a high fashion item. There has also been threats to the tweed cap, such as the American style baseball cap, but the tweed cap appears to be winning the war.

The British aren’t the only ones that can lay claim to the tweed cap. The Irish are also fans of the versatile hat and have their own varieties of tweed and manufacturing processes.

Famous Manufacturers of Tweed

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The Distinctive Harris Tweed Pattern

Harris Tweed is the most famous of Tweeds and is often used in the making of tweed caps. Harris Tweed is a luxurious wool cloth that has been woven by hand by the inhabitants of the Hebrides Islands, north of Scotland. It’s woven of the Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra. It’s woven using locally sourced wool.

The mark of traditional Harris Tweed is characterized by subtle flecks of color throughout the cloth. This affect is achieved through the use of various vegetable dyes, including the lichen dyes called “crottle.” These interesting lichens are what gives older Harris Tweed it’s distintive scent.

There are currently three mills manufacturing the cloth for Harris Tweed in the Scottish Isles. They have faced financial trouble in recent years, but because of the renewed popularity in the cloth, there’s been a bit of a renaissance for them. The defintion of Harris Tweed is actually enshrined in law and only cloth made in the Hebriean Isles is considered true Harris tweed. There are other tweeds out there, but only one Harris Tweed. Certification of genuine Harris Tweed products in maintained by the Harris Tweed Authority.

Another well known tweed is Donegal Tweed, made in Ireland.

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The Seal of the Harris Tweed Authority.

Where to Buy Tweed Caps

There are many places to buy Tweed Caps online. If you are ever in the UK, you can find them in most clothing shops or specialist hatters. I found my green wool cap in a street market.

Irish Donegal Tweed Caps in the USA from Berkelyhat

The Harris Tweed Authority Official Website

Harris Tweed Caps from Sears in the USA.

Harris Tweed Cap from John Helmer Headswear in Oregon

Tweed Caps from John Lock and Co. one of the oldest hatters in the UK. The company was founded in 1676 and still has a storefront to this day.

Tweed Cap Videos

Video showing how Harris Tweed is made in the Scottish Isles.

The Making of a Distinctive Donegal Tweed Cap by Hanna Hats in Ireland.

My Tweed Cap

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My Green Tweed Cap. Found it in Notting Hill Market for £25 in 2006. It’s one of my most prized possessions.

Author Info -  Jonathan is a consummate Anglophile with an obsession for Britain that borders on psychosis. He keeps Anglotopia running in his spare time, always dreaming of his next trip to England, wishing he lived there - specifically Dorset - and is always trying to figure out a way to move to England. It will happen one day. Keep up with him on Twitter here. Read more from this author


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Comments

  1. Matt says:

    Don’t forget that the Abraham Moon mill in England also makes great tweed.

  2. Else says:

    Can gals where tweed caps? Or is that frowned upon?

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