In front of me, a narrow, cobbled street; behind me, an Inn built in 1660. To my left, a group of forty-somethings discuss the relative merits of Italy versus France as a holiday destination; to my right, a couple of (perhaps) twenty-somethings discuss the stoking new X-Box Cycle Racing game they just bought. In my hand, a pint of Jail Ale bitter. It’s a symmetry I like; I’m in Totness.

This is my second trip, and I’m getting to know my way around. Today after work I strolled along the river by the old wharfs that are now trendy cafés and bistros, followed the winding streets though the arched gateway that used to be part of the wall surrounding the medieval town, and wandered up onto the High Street to view the quirky shops and restaurants before returning to my hotel for dinner and a pint.

I love these English towns where, even in the midst of them, you can see the surrounding countryside.

It took a while to put my finger on it, but I could sense there was something about this town that was . . . different, but different in a way that was secretly pleasing. Then it gradually dawned on me; being here is like stepping back in time. There is not a McDonald’s in sight, nor a Travel Lodge, KFC or even a Tesco. In fact, my hotel, I am told, is the only one in town. There are B&Bs aplenty, but if you want a proper hotel, this is the only option; though what an option! Its layout is unique, each room is different, the main hallway used to be a courtyard where guests on horseback were received, the restaurant is superb and it has a terrific pub with bags of character and an active fireplace.

And it’s also a slower pace of life; all I can hear right now are the muffled conversations going on around me and the rattle of cars over the cobble stones. I have seen a police car cruise by, but I have not heard a siren. The night is quiet and welcoming, a bit like the people, who smile and say, “Good morning,” as I walk to the office, even though they have never seen me before.

I realize I am lucky to be here, and to have a job that sends me all over the country—to places like Birmingham, Gateshead and Nottingham (which are no one’s idea of a holiday destination, but I still manage to find some charm while I am there)—and, occasionally, to places like Totness, where I can step back in time for a while, slow down and enjoy a pint surrounded by the mummer of conversation, the clatter of cobbles . . . and nothing else.

Author Info -  Mike is an American living in Southern England in Horsham. Mike blogs weekly on Thursdays about Life in the UK. Check out Mike's recent book, Postcards from Across the Pond as well as his awesome blog. Read more from this author

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