September 2, 2010

Dispatches from the North: Top 10 Best of the British Summer

I realize that I’m posting this right at the end of the summer, possibly not the best timing for a post such as this but I’ve had so much excitement this summer from the process of getting my ILR Visa to the Tall Ships Races here in Hartlepool and Red Dreams Pitch Invasion music festival last weekend that I just haven’t had the opportunity to finish this post and publish it. Well, a bit late but I suppose it can serve as a tool for reminiscing or for planning for next summer.

Summer in Britain is glorious, while Brits will tell you it is “red hot” or “boiling” outside, in most parts of Britain it rarely gets above 80º F and even that is pretty rare. A normal “hot” summer day in Britain is in the low to mid 70′s. Sure you need to remember to put on your sunscreen, but it’s comfortable to stroll around and enjoy the sun without getting unbearably hot and ducking into the next air conditioned building you find. Here are the top 10 best things about Summer in Britain:

1. Ice Cream

A typical British summer afternoon usually involves stopping into a seaside shop for an ice cream or running for the ice cream van. The quintessential British ice cream treat is the 99 Flake or sometimes just called a “99″. It’s a regular soft serve vanilla ice cream cone with a Cadbury Flake stuck into the top. Most shops and ice cream vans usually offer the option of topping your 99 with “monkey’s blood” which is simply a raspberry syrup. Cadbury sells regular sized Flake bars, but the 99 Flake is specially produced by Cadbury for this ice cream application. There are many speculations about where the name “99″ comes from and according to Cadbury it has been “lost in the mists of time” but regardless of the origins of the names it’s a simple, delicious and very British thing.

2. Fish & Chips

Right next to the seaside ice cream shop where you get your 99 you will usually find a fish & chip shop. On a nice day here in Seaton Carew you walk down the main street and there are two fish & chip shops, one “on the left” and one “on the right”. Over the years the people from the town have come to regard “the one on the left” as the best chippy in Seaton Carew, being a local and living just down the street I’ve actually discovered this commonly held idea is actually false and “the one on the right” is much better. Even though “the one on the left” has changed owners at least once since I’ve moved here, people still line up out the door at this chippy convinced that it’s the best. I would imagine this is a fairly typical situation in other seaside towns and villages across Britain. On a nice summer day people fill benches and squat on curbs with the curiously shaped “chip fork” in hand and a styrofoam carton of greasy fish and chips. It’s an essential ingredient to the British summer.

3. Going to the Beach

In the North of England going to the beach isn’t what it is in the US or in the warmer Southern parts like Cornwall. Here you must go to the beach fully clothed most days, there isn’t much sunbathing to be done and many people will bring with them a kind of half tent or simple bit of tarp attached to some wooden poles that act as a wind screen. You will see children darting in and out of the freezing cold water, but for the most part going to the beach here in the North East means sitting fully clothed on the sand and taking in the views. It might sound boring but there is no need to reapply sunscreen every twenty minutes after sweating it off, there is always a refreshing breeze coming off the water, it’s great people watching and there are lots of opportunities for outdoor activities like playing a game of soccer on the beach or some of the best kite flying conditions you’ll ever find.

4. Late Sunsets

I sometimes forget how far North I truly am until the winter when the sun rises after 9am and sets at around 3:30pm or in the summer when the sun rises at 4am and sets at 10pm. The British summer day is LONG and it’s one of my favorite things about living this far North!

5. Music Festivals

There are several outdoor music festivals over the summer, the most famous of course being Glastonbury but there is also Cream Fields, the V festival and many other small local festivals that will crop up anywhere you can find an open bit of land and permission to plop down a stage. For the second year in a row Hartlepool had its own music festival called Pitch Invasion which was organized by the music charity I volunteer for, Red Dreams. It was fairly small with about 6,000 people attending over the two days, but it definitely had the festival vibe and gave local bands a chance to participate in this British summer staple.

6. Parks & Gardens

Britain has some gorgeous parks and public gardens, even the smallest in the humblest of towns are lovingly maintained and groomed. Here in Hartlepool the largest is Ward Jackson Park which has a bit of something for everyone, there is a little “woodland walk” which is a dirt path that winds through the trees and brush, there is a traditional landscaped typical English garden area with perfectly manicured flower beds and there is a duck pond where hobbyists often bring remote control boats to zoom around on the calm water. There is also a children’s playground and lots of open space for playing frisbee or just lounging on the grass. Having a stroll through a well maintained park is one of the best parts of the British summer.

7. Barbecues

If you are lucky enough to have a back garden or know someone who does, a barbecue on a summer day is a great way to relax. A British barbecue isn’t much different from an American one although it’s definitely a lot more relaxed. Where American men usually have a state of the art grill or smoker or other very manly outdoor appliances and maybe plan ahead by marinating meat and other impressive culinary tricks, Brits like to keep it simple with a small grill and simple burgers and sausages and jacket potatoes (baked potatoes if you’re American) with all the fixins’ on the side. There will always be lots of cold lager and cider to go around as well!

8. Beer Gardens

When the weather starts to heat up in the Spring the first thing I start to look for is the beer gardens opening up. On a sunny afternoon pubs’ beer gardens are packed with people relaxing. It seems no matter the day of the week or time of the day, if the sun is out and it’s warm enough to sit outside there will be people in the beer garden enjoying frosty beverages. I’ve walked into a Wetherspoons pub at noon on a Tuesday for lunch to find the beer garden brimming with people enjoying a pint in the middle of the day. There is just no keeping people away if the sun is out and there is a beer garden nearby.

9. Caravan Parks

All over the UK you will find holiday caravan parks. Caravan parks are a collection of “caravans” or basically trailers that are specifically for the purpose of renting for a week like a cabin or hotel room and then in the middle of the caravan park there is usually a pub and lots of stuff for kids to do like pools and arcades. I haven’t been to one yet since I’m more of a tent and campground kind of person, but for families it’s a great way to get a camping-like experience in a more comfortable and kid-friendly environment.

10. Camping

The North of England is dotted with prime camping areas. The Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, The Pennines, and even just here in the Cleveland Hills. Britain has some serious campers and the natural beauty of this country is ready-made for some of the best camping experiences. The one thing about camping here that is much different from the US is that in this day and age it’s incredibly difficult to find a campground that has fire rings. I was shocked last summer when I was looking for a place to camp and only found a handful of places in the area I wanted to go that allowed fires. Blame the culture of Health and Safety, but I just can’t imagine a campsite without a fire at night for roasting marshmallows and telling stories.

That is my lineup of the Top Ten of the British Summer, it’s a bit late but we’ve still got a few more warm days to squeeze out of Summer 2010 and there is always next summer!

Dispatches from the North: Path to Settlement in the UK – Part III

I’ll cut to the chase, I received my Indefinite Leave to Remain visa just a little over a week ago and I am now permanently settled in the United Kingdom!

The final process of filling out all the paperwork was by far the easiest part, the hardest part for me was parting with £840, especially since we are living on my husband’s income alone and have to live on a pretty tight budget. The Life in the UK test wasn’t exactly difficult, just very time consuming but still more difficult than filling out the application .

The Form SET(M) that I had to fill out was only 18 pages, including notes and definitions and the cover page. After all was said and done, in total I only filled out about 10 pages, and some of those were just ticking boxes and making declarations. As I mentioned in Part II, we had to provide 6 pieces of correspondence that were addressed to both my husband and me from 3 different sources. We sent two council tax bills, two utility bills and two letters from our bank for our joint account so it was quite easy for us since my name was added to all our utility bills while my husband was deployed a year ago. We also had to include the previous three months of bank statements, I didn’t have all of these in my records but it was quite easy to just go to the bank and get them to print me out what I needed. We also had to send in photos of both of us, two of me and one of my spouse. There are machines all over where you can get passport photos taken, so this part was also just a matter of going out and getting them done. From start to finish it only took my husband and me a few hours to fill out the form.

After I sent out the application form I’ve never been so nervous about anything in my life. There was just so much at stake and it was totally out of my hands. First I was worried that if I made a mistake and they rejected my application, the application fee was non-refundable. I was also worried about what I would do if my application was rejected. All of the far-fetched worst case scenarios ran through my head as I waited for my application to be processed. In the back of my mind I knew that I was a shoe-in and the Border Agency had absolutely no reason at all to reject my application, but when so much rides on getting that sticker on my passport its easy to let your imagination run wild and consider the possibility of something going horribly wrong.

To make the waiting all the more stressful, in the days before I filed my application a job opportunity opened up. The employer didn’t want to move forward until I had my visa in hand. The entire time I was hoping that the turn around time for my visa would be miraculously fast but in the back of my mind I also knew they wouldn’t wait for me. While I did get my visa back incredibly quickly, within less than two weeks of when I filed my application, it wasn’t fast enough and the opportunity came and went as I sat waiting for my visa. I have to believe it wasn’t meant to be, the job was just a temporary contract so its nothing to get upset over, and I’ve already had new possibilities opening up for me. Still, the possibility of employment hanging over my head as I sat waiting made it seem like the longest two weeks of my life.

Now that its over and I have my visa, it seems like everything has changed. I’m hoping that this will open some doors for me and I’ll be a more attractive candidate to potential employers. Its something that I can’t explain, its kind of like when people tell you that everything changes when you get married and it changes your relationship. It is almost as if the two year temporary residence visa was like an engagement, a time for me to plan for my life together with Britain, and getting my permanent settlement and indefinite leave to remain is like being married to Britain. My whole attitude has changed, and I think its even noticeable to people I meet. There aren’t many Americans up here, so when I meet people they are always curious and ask the same questions. Before I got my ILR visa, people would ask me all the time if I was planning to move back to the US. Now, in only the past few weeks, people ask me if/when I think my accent will change. I don’t know why, but people seem to accept more that I’m here to stay without even knowing anything about my immigration status and only that I’ve been here for two years. Maybe its a “vibe” that I’m putting out that is different, but it does feel like this little sticker on my passport has changed so much in my life.

The next step is of course to become a British citizen. I’ve looked into it and I am eligible for citizenship at this time next year. However, the application fee for that is another £735 and I can think of more important things we could spend that money on over the next year. Really the only difference between an ILR visa and a British passport is that I can’t vote or freely go to Cuba, so at this point its not really worth it to get citizenship right away when I could live on this visa for the rest of my life with very little difference. I know we’ll make that extra step eventually, but unlike getting this visa, when I go for that scarlet passport it will be on my timeline and when we can afford it. Its good to know that after next year it will be something we can do when we are ready for it.

Dispatches from the North: My Appearance on BBC Question Time

I came, I saw, I had my say.

I realize this is a long post, so I’ve split it into two parts for your benefit, first about the experience in general, and then specifically about my brief appearance.

Behind the scenes of BBC Question Time

The entire experience was amazing from start to finish and something I’ll never forget and always feel privileged I had the opportunity to participate in.

Let me start from the beginning, before the show every audience member must submit one question that is “provocative, and reflecting the main news of the week” which last week was difficult as a lot of the news was pretty intense foreign policy news. People love to talk about education, the economy and other close to home issues, but I think a lot of the week’s news was pretty intimidating and many were afraid to ask questions about the war in Afghanistan and David Cameron’s visit to the White House which dominated the headlines.

When we arrived we checked in and were given another card on which to write a second question relating to the day’s news. As the audience members enjoyed complimentary beverages and snacks in the pub, David Dimbleby walked in, grabbed a chair and stood on it to address the audience. He started out by commenting on the history of the Hartlepool Borough Hall which most of us didn’t realize used to be a police station, jail and magistrates court. I was really impressed that he took such an interest in the place and wasn’t “just passing through” and in his little pep talk he was exactly the same witty personality you see on TV.

He encouraged us to get involved, debate, argue with the panelists and each other and if we had something to say please say it. He also told us to treat it as a pantomime and if someone said something we liked to cheer and clap and if someone said something we disagreed with, by all means boo. I was left feeling positive about the whole experience I was about to be a part of.

I had a few expectations going in, first being that certainly it wasn’t a free for all and that the BBC carefully selected the questions and the people from the audience who got a chance to speak and challenge the panelists. This was not the case at all, the only thing the producers had control of was selecting which audience members got to ask their questions to set the topics. This wasn’t done to control the content, questions were selected to make sure this show was current and didn’t cover things that had been covered in previous shows. It honestly was no holds barred and they spent quite a bit of time with the audience getting us warmed up and ready for a lively debate. It is exactly as it appears on TV with no gimmicks and no restrictions.

I also had expected that since we were to be there for 3 1/3 hours that we would spend a couple hours recording the show and debating and they would cut the show up and choose which comments to air. This wasn’t the case at all, the entire broadcasted show is recorded in real time and nothing is cut or excluded from the show.

At 7:15 we were led into the main hall where I saw the set, which looked so different without all the studio lights turned on. After we sat down the Floor Manager came out and requested that 5 audience members volunteer to come down and sit in the panelists’ seats. At this point, everyone was reluctant to get involved and it took some time for 5 people to volunteer themselves to come sit in the hot seats. Then the lights came on, the set came to life with stand-in panelists and the Floor Manager sat in David Dimbleby’s seat to act as the chairman. At this point he brought out a question from the previous week that hadn’t made the show so we would have something to debate with each other. The question was about child obesity in the UK and if child protection orders should be served on parents who allow their children to become obese. The audience spent the next hour debating this single question, with audience members standing in as panelists and this method worked like a charm because it really got the audience warmed up and the group who had been sitting silently and afraid to speak were suddenly getting into a lively debate with each other, all off camera. Then it was announced which audience members would get the opportunity to ask their questions and by the time the panelists were brought in, the audience was fired up and ready to go.

The panelists were brought in one by one, and the audience actually booed every single one of them. I think people were just excited that they had been encouraged to boo politicians and took the opportunity to boo them all whether they agreed with them or not. After the politicians were seated and their microphones pinned on (and Bob Crow’s bald head liberally dusted with powder by the makeup girl) we started with a test question which wasn’t recorded and gave the camera crews a chance to practice getting the angles they needed. After we discussed the practice question we were told we were about to record and then it all started.

It was exciting sitting in the audience and there were some very entertaining arguments between Conservative MP Damian Green and Labour MP Sadiq Khan. Bob Crow seemed to go on tangents about things that seemed to have nothing at all to do with the questions (like Mill Wall football?), Ruth Lea found a way to make her responses as boring as possible and don’t even get me started on the ridiculous behavior of Nigel Farage.

This is Where it gets Interesting…

The show was winding down, I’d managed to go through nearly the whole show without needing to throw my hat in- and then Nigel Farage opened his mouth with some of the most inaccurate and patronising generalizations about the American people I have ever heard. Here is a clip which starts with his ignorant comments and then finally I was called on to speak and give him quite a shock.

Click here to view a larger version.

I honestly think Nigel Farage thought he could get away with what he said relying on the assumption that no Americans would see it, and if they did, certainly none of them would be there in the audience to challenge him. His mistake was to underestimate not only me, but Hartlepool as well. Throughout the night he continually spoke to the audience in a patronising tone, attempting to flatter us and drop in comments like “walking down the high street in Hartlepool” (Hartlepool doesn’t actually have a proper high street) and other such instruments politicians are accustomed to using to woo voters and supporters. He tried to “come down to our level” and figured he could tell us anything and we would buy it, but his comments about America didn’t go unnoticed by the audience. I was also further offended that as I was speaking and challenging him on his ignorant comments he attempted to talk over me, and David Dimbleby actually had to tell him to be quiet and let me have my say. Nigel underestimated the people of Hartlepool, and he certainly didn’t plan on me.

I’ve had the very surreal experience of being able to read about myself on Twitter. I’m quite happy to report that about 99% of Tweeters seemed to be cheering me on, but there was a handful of people who decided to focus on me “forgetting” about Wales (trust me, I didn’t forget I had only a few seconds to get my point across and couldn’t find all the words in the very high pressure heat of the moment), one Tweeter thought I was planted in the audience by the BBC, and then there were a few others who missed the point completely and drew conclusions that I was taking an opposing position to Nigel Farage on the issue.

This was not my aim, I was poking holes in Nigel Farage’s (very weak) argument and what I didn’t actually do was assert any opinion of my own on the topic. I wasn’t going to allow him to fabricate justifications for his point of view while insulting me and all Americans as a means to support his argument. If he thought that nobody representing the UK or Scottish government should be sent to answer for the release of al-Megrahi, I have no problem with that, but to base that argument on a belief that Americans would be confused by devolution of the UK government (a system uncannily similar to state governance in the US) and that we don’t care about anything going on outside our borders is a totally ludicrous way to support such an argument.

I think some people assumed that because I was disagreeing with the premise of Nigel’s argument that they could draw a conclusion that I think Kenny MacAskill and Alex Salmond should be sent to the White House when I didn’t say that at all. I can honestly understand and relate to both sides of the issue, but thats not even what the question was. The question that was asked was whether Alex Salmond should be the one speaking to Obama instead of David Cameron. I do think if anyone at all is going to go it should be whoever was responsible for making the decision and it makes no sense for David Cameron or any member of the current Coalition government to be answering for decisions they had nothing to do with. This would be akin to Barack Obama being asked to answer for a decision that Arnold Schwarzenegger made in California 3 years ago.

As for the comments that Bob Crow made after I spoke, I didn’t really take them as directed at me at all. That was his one chance to speak on the issue and it was clearly a rehearsed answer (and a bit of a red herring if I’m being completely honest). All of the panelists would have known this might be one of the questions and he would have said that in response to any question on the topic regardless of whether I had been there or not.

Overall it was an unforgettable experience, and I like to think I used my 15 seconds of “fame” to defend my fellow Americans, and the cherry on the top was the priceless look on Nigel Farage’s face.

Dispatches from the North: BBC Question Time is coming to Hartlepool!

BBC One’s Question Time is visiting Hartlepool this week, and even better- I’m going to be in the audience!!!

Following last week’s Question Time they mentioned the next stop was going to be Hartlepool so I went online and applied to be part of the audience. I got the call yesterday that I was selected! I had to submit one question in advance and then tomorrow when I go I have to bring another question. Both questions have to relate to the week’s news. I am really excited to be a part of this, it is one of those once in a lifetime things. I love watching the show so I’m so excited to be a part of it.

Be sure to watch on BBC One at 10:35 PM tomorrow night! I’ll write a full follow up post next week and tell you all about the experience.

Dispatches from the North: Path to Settlement in the UK Part II

Well let’s get right to it- I PASSED! Yes, on my first try I passed the Life in the UK Test. I found it quite simple really, although I can understand where the challenges lie for people who come from different cultures and don’t speak English as a primary language. It took me less than 10 minutes to finish all 24 questions and review my answers and I was the first one in the group that finished with my test. I was 100% sure about all of the questions except one, which was probably the easiest one as it was about film ratings!

The way the study materials are set up made it quite easy for me to study, but I did have to put in a lot of time. Because the book is aimed at people with a proficiency in English but who are not primary English speakers the materials were very easy to read and understand and just the basic facts without confusing or unnecessary information. I started off reading the required chapters of the book and went through and highlighted the statistics and figures I would need to memorize. After reading everything I utilized an online service at flashcardmachine.com to make my own flashcards using the stats and figures that I had highlighted throughout the book.

Using flashcards to study was really helpful for me as there were so many specific figures to commit to memory.  As I went through the flashcards I was able to “flag” the ones I needed to review over and over again which made it very easy to sort out what I needed to concentrate on and what I had firmly committed to memory. Here is a link to the flashcard set I made using Flashcard Machine, you are welcome to use them for studying or if you are just a curious Anglophile and want to see a rundown of the material covered in the book you can check them out.

Life in the UK Test Flashcards

If you are studying for the Life in the UK Test you may find these helpful, although of course these are things I felt I needed help to remember, so while I think it is a fairly complete set it isn’t necessarily “one size fits all”. This is by no means an “official” study tool but the numbers were taken directly from the Second Edition book. I did find that many of the stats and dates in these flashcards did appear on the actual test, so I know from my experience that these flashcards are a good study tool and relevant to the test. I hope that anyone out there preparing for their test can use this set of flashcards to study and pass on the first try!

My next step is to fill out the application form and submit the necessary documents. As I’m going through the application I can see how the various documents required can help weed out anyone trying to commit fraud. If you remember the movie Green Card, Brontë and Georges went to quite a bit of trouble to try and fool INS into thinking they were a genuine couple. Here they would have trouble getting past the first step, as spouses applying for an Indefinite Leave to Remain Visa are required to provide 6 “letters” addressed to both spouses ranging over the 2 year period of living in the UK from at least 3 different sources, this means things like utility and council tax bills addressed to both people.

One good thing that came out of my husband’s deployment was that we had to go through and put my name on all of our accounts before he was deployed in case I needed to call and make any enquiries. I was able to go through our records and easily pluck out 6 documents, but for some couples I can see how this might be a challenge. If one spouse moves here and the other has already established a life and home they might not think to immediately put both names on accounts, and in some cultures having the wife’s name registered on bills might not be customary. I would definitely advise anyone planning to move to the UK with a spouse and plans to settle to be sure to get both names on bills as soon as possible to make it easier when the time comes to apply for settlement.

In my next and (hopefully) final installment of the Path to Settlement in the UK series I’ll go a bit more in depth about filling out the application and applying for settlement.

Please note this post is only a reflection of my personal experience and does not represent any official views/advice from the Home Office. If you are uncertain about anything related to immigration or settlement, you should contact the Home Office directly.