September 9, 2010

Guest Post: A Guide to Scottish Food and Cuisine

Editor’s Note: The following is a guest post all about Scottish Food! Delicious!

For hundreds of years, Scotland was regarded as the poor relation in Northern Europe, rather disadvantaged and culturally backward. By necessity, the Scots were forced to export their country’s best produce, not to mention their quality protein sources. Consequently, the Scots learned to make hearty dishes out of what was left over. The Scots’ “soul food” became savoury specialties now enjoyed by foodies the world over.

Due to their years of dire economic circumstances, it seems like the urban poor were forced into protein and fresh produce-deficient diets. Nutritionally, things have been looking up in the last few years, as a new Scots cuisine is making inroads into world consciousness. Primarily, I think this happened due to regaining their native bounty, and to the richly deserved attention paid to their artful folk cookery.

While I once regarded Scottish cookery as denture-inducing sweets and rabbit pie, I was surprised at all the different and frankly gourmet cuisine the Scots have made for themselves.

So, I will try to answer the question: just what do they eat in Scotland? Well, what Scots lad doesn’t fancy a deep-fried Mars bar every so often? Now he can enjoy one after a truly slap-up dinner at a posh Scots restaurant, fancy…

HAGGIS

Image: Traditional Scottish Haggis – Credit: Nick Thompson

The iconic dish that we non-Scots are frankly fascinated by. Haggis is minced sheep innards mixed with oatmeal and onion, stuffed into the stomach, and baked. Every loyal Scot drinks a noggin of Johnny Walker and feasts each January 25th, Robert ‘Rabbie’ Burns Day. To those who would turn up their noses I must ask: do you know everything that goes into your banger?

TATTIES AND NEEPS

Image: Neeps and Tatties served with black pudding – Credit: Ibán

Potatoes and swedes. The Scots have a special way with them. Mash is a noble side dish, but also adds magic to Chappit Tatties (mixed with a variety of greens or peas), excellent chips, and tatties fried in goose-fat. Neeps are bashed not mashed. They accompany mash with the Haggis, are eaten on their own, and both with cheese on top create Orkney Clapshot.

OATS

Image: Measuring out Oats for Cooking – Credit: Jacqueline

Bannocks, Haggis stuffing, scones and crackers; popular extender in many dishes, and, for my money, the best damn oatmeal you ever ate.

SWEETS

Image: Scottish cream, raspberries and shortbread trifle – Credit: London Looks

Scottish trifle, shortbread, clootie dumplin, heavenly berries with cream, and prunes soaked in whisky for weeks. Oh, and don’t forget the deep-fried mars bars.

GAME

Image: A man enjoys venison pie in Glasgow – Credit: Julia Manzerova

Poached venison, rabbit, various birds and small game used to make up a large part of Scottish food. Did you know you could poach a salmon? Poach, as in pinch it from the Laird. It isn’t game, but it counts.

WILD CRAFTED FOOD

Image: Lambs in the Scottish Highlands – Credit: Zaniac

This is what the culinary world is beginning to call natural foods not industrially made: the foods the Scots have reclaimed. Native breeds of beef and lamb fed on pure highland grass; the cream, milk, butter and cheese. The bounty taken from the cold ocean currents and clear rivers and streams. With ingredients like these and more at their disposal, I’d say that it’s no wonder that Scots cuisine has gone world class.

Source: This guest post is bought to you by Boisdale – a Scottish Restaurant, whisky bar and live jazz in Belgravia and Bishopsgate, London.

Dispatches from the North: An Adventure in Southwest Scotland

In my opinion one of the biggest advantages to living in the North of England is that you are just a short drive from Scotland. My husband has worked in Scotland for over a decade stationed at both of the Royal Navy bases in Scotland, Rosyth right outside of Edinburgh on the East coast of Scotland and Faslane just outside of Glasgow on the West coast of Scotland.

My husband at work, imagine if that was the view out your office window?

Despite the close proximity I’ve only been to Scotland twice, once four years ago when I first visited Britain and then again last week. They tell me that the weather there is usually cold, gray and rainy but both times I have been there the weather has been clear, sunny and warm. I’m thinking the Scottish Tourist Board should consider hiring me to come up and visit during major events because I seem to bring unusually gorgeous weather with me when I visit Scotland. I feel quite privileged that I have seen Scotland only at its very best.

Last week my husband needed to drive up to HMNB Clyde in Faslane so he could pick up all of his gear that had been shipped back after he returned from his last deployment in the Persian Gulf. Instead of making the 4 hour drive on his own and turning right back around we decided to make a little vacation out of the trip. We booked one night at a RSR (Royal Sailors Rest), also known as an “Aggie” which is a kind of retreat/B&B that can usually be found in the areas surrounding Britain’s Naval Bases. The RSR is a faith-based charity geared toward giving sailors and their families a relaxing refuge in an alcohol and smoke free environment. The RSRs were created by Agnes Weston (hence the term “Aggies”) for the Victorian Navy at a time when the Royal Navy was plagued by alcohol abuse among its sailors. The RSRs were started as a “pub with no beer” and provided respite for sailors in a Christian environment. The RSRs still provide spiritual, alcohol-free recreation and accommodation for serving Royal Navy personell and their families. This RSR Hotel, Braeholm, was open to the public as well but Royal Navy and Royal Marines personell receive 20% off the room rate which also includes a delicious breakfast in the morning.

RSR Hotel Braeholm in Helensburgh, Scotland outside HMNB Clyde

We had such a relaxing stay at Braeholm and a lovely drive around Gare Loch where HMNB Clyde is situated. After one night at RSR Braeholm and an amazing breakfast in the morning we headed out for home. There is something about Scotland that gives my husband and me a sense of adventure. On our first trip to Scotland we stayed one night in Edinburgh which turned into a drive up into the Highlands and lunch at a game lodge which had been converted into a B&B which then turned into another night staying there in the middle of nowhere up in Highlands. This time around as we were driving we passed one of those familiar brown road signs pointing the way to a landmark or attraction which you see all over Britain. My husband mentioned he had passed this sign for Drumlanrig Castle nearly every week for years and had never actually gotten off the motorway to see it. So we immediately put on our indicator, exited the motorway and took a little detour in search of this castle.

Even if the castle had been a disappointment, which is wasn’t, the drive there on a long winding road through the Southwestern hills of Scotland was breathtaking. It was the most beautiful drive I have ever been on and totally worth the detour. We pulled along the side of the road to snap some photos and visit some Scottish sheep.

On the way to Drumlanrig Castle

After this pleasant, winding drive we finally arrived at Drumlanrig Castle. It was nothing like I expected, and although smaller and less opulent, it instantly reminded me of Versailles with the long tree lined drive and carefully maintained hedges and gardens. As soon as you turn the corner to the long drive leading up to it you suddenly feel you should be approaching by horse and carriage. I felt I should at least have a pair of coconut shells to bash together for effect.

The long whimsical drive up to Drumlanrig Castle

We didn’t have the time to go inside the castle, but exploring the grounds was definitely worth the trip out.

From the back garden of Drumlanrig Castle

I hope it won’t be another four years before my next visit to Scotland, but I do hope that the sense of adventure strikes us each time and we discover more of Scotland’s hidden gems in visits to come.

Guest Post: Exploring Scotland – Mull of Kintyre – My little bit of Paradise

Editor’s Note: The following is a guest post from Ross Fraser about his favorite little bit of Scotland. Ross lives in Edinburgh and runs a travel blog about traveling around Europe.

Mention the words “Mull of Kintyre” and you will be forgiven for immediately thinking about that once highly popular but also in my opinion slightly cringe worthy song by Paul McCartney.

Whilst I personally wasn’t too fond of the song one thing Paul McCartney got right though was singing about the Mull of Kintyre in the first place. Having spent the best part of 15 years of my childhood visiting the Mull it now has a very special place in my heart, which I want to share with you.

For anyone who can’t quite pin-point the Mull of Kintyre on a map of the UK don’t worry! The Mull is a peninsula off the west coast of Scotland around 40 miles long and could almost be classes as a ‘mainland island’. It is around 130 miles from Glasgow and on a good day takes about 3-4 hours to get to from Glasgow, but there is so much wonderful scenery to see on the way there that it could take you a good while longer, if you keep stopping to take pictures.

The Mull’s largest town Campeltown, is located at the bottom of Kintyre. The town was built around a bay and the bay is protected by Davaar Island. Davaar island is connected to the mainland by a causeway which you can access at lowtide. The north of the island includes a lighthouse while the south of the island has a cave with a famous painting of Jesus on the cross, which is worth a look at. But make sure you visit the tourist information centre first to get the tide times or you could end up spending the night on the island!

Campbeltown’s two main exports have to be Mull of Kintyre cheddar, quite a delicious mature cheddar that is made using milk from the region and processed in the creamery in the town. Make sure you visit the creamery shop where you can buy the cheese than the supermarket sells it for. Campbeltown’s other export is Springbank whisky www.springbankwhisky.com/   At one point Campbeltown boasted 34 distilleries but fortunes changed and Springbank of only one of a couple left in this once thriving town.

Leaving Campbeltown and traveling up the B842 you make your way through a number of must see places. From childhood I must have traveled this road many hundreds of times, but still to this day never quite get bored of it.

Saddle – this small collection of houses on the B842 contains a ruined abbey which is certainly worth a visit as there is an exhibition of carved medieval grave slabs. Saddle also had an outstanding beach, which you can walk to and this is where Wings filmed that famous song!

Further up the coast you reach Torrisdale bay. There is an old estate which has Torrisdale Castle in it. You can walk around the grounds and if you go in the autumn it is an excellent place to collect conkers. Torrisdale bay also has some really interesting rock pools which I remember spending many a happy childhood day exploring for sea creatures.

Between saddle and Torrisdale, there is a spot in the road that you can stop and if you look out to see you can see where a family of seals live and breed. I don’t know if this is still the case, it certainly was 15 years ago, but as this area of the country is popular with seals there is a good chance you will spot some if you keep your eyes.

Drive beyond Torrisdale and you reach the village of Carradale. This is where my Gran and Grandpa lived and holds so many special, vivid childhood memories for me. It was once a popular summer holiday destinations – but package holiday abroad meant it has become a far quieter affair than during my years spent there.

There is an amazing beach called the silver sands, which also has a campsite.

There is a pier which is home to a number of working fishing boats, and to the left of the pier is the ‘shore walk’ which you can walk along for about ¾ of a mile.

On a good day you can see clearly to Arran. Carradale has a pub and a couple of hotels and there is also a golf course, which I used to play at with my dad when I was growing up. There is also a small jewellery factory and shop in the village.

Leaving Carradale you have two options you can either drive back to Campbeltown and take the Atlantic road back to Tarbert, or you can drive the extremely windy B road back to Tarbert. If you are not experienced with the B road I would recommend driving back through Campbeltown.

The Mull of Kintyre has a number of other interesting stories to tell. It used to be home to a Nato base and as you drive around the mull you will notice some rather odd shaped hills and a huge runway at Machrihanish. I remember playing in the garden at my Grandparents and you would hear Harrier jump jets screeching over your head from time to time, which is all very exciting as a child.

Machrihanish to the west of the Mull is home to a popular golf course and if you drive past it you come to Southend which is unbelievably only 13 miles from Ireland. To me Southend is famous for 2 things:

The etchings into a rock of St Columba who first brought Christianity from Ireland to Scotland and the remains of the art deco Keil hotel which I remember being in when I was a child, but now lies derelict in a sad state.

Traveling back up the Atlantic road towards Tarbert you will come to the island of Giagh on your left hand side. This hebridian island is 7 miles long and is completely community owned. You can visit the island by taking the ferry from Tayinloan. It is worth a visit there is a lovely hotel on the island and some gardens you can walk around (Achamore gardens) It is also home to Giagh cheese (the waxy fruit shaped cheeses).

Once you have driven back to Tarbert you have now left the Mull of Kintyre behind you.

I have mentioned only a few places that evoke really special memories for me and I would say to anyone looking to experience a slice of hidden Scotland that is not too difficult to get to then this part of the British isles is definitely worth a visit.

You can learn more about the Mull of Kintyre by visiting the websites I have linked to in the article.

Ross Fraser lives in Edinburgh and runs a travel blog about traveling around Europe.

Anglotopia Featured on Transatlanticism.org – My Dream Trip To Scotland

I’ve been featured again on the Visit Britain blog Transatlanticism.org. This week’s pot is a lot of fun – they asked me to come up with a list of what I would do if I had the chance for a dream trip to Scotland.

Here’s an excerpt:

Glasgow

Most Anglophiles love the British accent. But one thing we learn as we get more obsessed with Britain is that there are in fact many different accents on the island of Great Britain. After hearing many different accents over the years – by far my favorite is the Glasgow, lilting accent. I’m not sure what I would do in Glasgow other than sit in a pub and listen to locals talk. I do know the Glasgow is home to world class museums, monuments and architecture. But for me it will all be about the Glaswegian accent.

Read the rest here over a Transatlanticism!

Rick Steves in Scotland: Exploring Scotland’s Islands and Highlands

When I was growing up the one show that really inspired me to travel to Europe was the wonderful – if a little hokey – travel show presented by Rick Steves on PBS.

Thanks to the wonders of the internet, some of those shows are now available online and we can share them with you.

So, as part of an ongoing series, here’s some of Rick Steves’ shows from Britain.

Rick Steves’ Europe: Exploring Scotland’s Islands and Highlands